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(No Model.)

3- GUERRAND.

MACHINE FOR FORMING RAISED ORNAMENTS BY THREADSON FABRIGS.

Patented July 21, 14885.

. v a s b: g

m r a t r- INVENTOR ATTORNEYQS 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

R. GUERRAND. v MACHINE FOR FORMING RAISED ORNAMENTS BY THREADS 0N FABRICS.

No. 322,537. Patented July 21, 1885.

M 7 22 Z/l J M M INVEN TOR ATTORNEYJ (No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3. R. GUERRAND. MACHINE FOR FORMING RAISED ORNAMENTS BY THREADS 0N FABRIOS.

INVENTOR m"; w/L Y ATTORNEYS v ATENT OFFICE.

RENE GUERRAND, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO CHARLES JOSEPH PROSFEREBARREZ, OF SAME PLACE.

MACHINE FOR FORMING RAISED ORNAMENTS BY THREADS N FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 322,537, dated July 21, 1885.

Application filed January 28, 1885. (No model.) 7 I To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, RENE GUERRAND, a citizen of the Republic of France, at present residing in New York city,.in the county-and State of New York, have invented an Improved Machine for Forming Raised Ornaments by Threads on Fabrics, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being made to theaccompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side view, partly in section, of my improved machine. Fig. 2is a detail face viewof part of the same. Fig. 2 is a detail top view of part of the same. Fig. 3is an en- 5 the needle and biting the thread. Fig. 4 is a cross-section on the line 00 a, Fig. 3. Figs. 5 and 6 are detail views of the needle and threadbiting jaws, showing the parts in different positions. Fig. 7 is a face view of the fabric as it comes out of the machine, and Fig. Sis a section thereof. Fig. 9 is a face view of the finished fabric, and Fig. 10 a section thereof.

This invention relates to a new machine for forming raised ornaments by worsted or other threads on the. faces of fabrics, and to the new fabric thus produced and-it consists, first, in combining areciprocating needle with a pair of jaws for biting the thread, and withmechanism for moving said jaws and said thread, as hereinafter described.

In the drawings, the letter A represents the fabricto be ornamented. The same is stretched in one direction over rods B, that rest on suitable supports, 0, and in theopposi'te direction the fabric is held distended by hooks a that project from cross -'bars I) of the supports 0. .The rods B can be adjusted on the cross-bars b so as to be the proper distance apart from one another, according to the varying lengths of fabrics to be operated upon. Above this fabric A thus stretched is suspended the needle D, which is attached to a vertically-reciprocating'slide, E, that is guided in-a frame, F. The slide E at its upper portion carries a slotted or grooved segment, d, into the slot or groove of which enters a crank -pin, e, that projects from a rotary disk, G, said disk having its bearings in the frame F, all as shown in Figs. 3 and 4.

larged facevicw of the mechanism for moving The frame F is rigidly connected to an arm, H,which, at f, is pivoted to aforked swivel, I, the fork of which is turned upward to straddle the arm H. The swivel-pin part 9 of the swivel I extends downwardly into an upright 5 tube, J, as indicated in Fig. 1, and is free to turn in said tube. The lower end of said tube J receives a swivel-pin, '71-, that projects upwardly from a forked piece, L, which is shown in the lower part of Fig. 1 and in Fig. 2, said forked piece L being pivoted ati in a fixed stationary frame, M. The pivot i carries a wheel, j, and the pivot f carries a wheel, Z. Rotary motion is imparted to the wheel 1; by a belt, m, fro m a suitable driving-wheel, N, and is transmitted from'the wheel 1? by a belt, n, to the wheel I. From Z this motion is further transmitted by a belt, 0, to the wheelG. Rotarymotion is imparted to the drivingwheel N, either by suitable machinery well adapted to .the purpose or by the foot of the operator with the assistance of suitable treadles, such as are used inordinary sewingmachines.

Back of the pivot f the arm H carries a 7 counter-weight, 0, which balances the frame F and its attachments.

It follows from the description of the mechanism already described, that when the wheel M is revolved the needle D will be reciprocated up and down,and it follows, further, that the operator holding in her hand the lower part of the frame F or any-suitable handle portion thereon can guide this frame F above the fabric A with perfect freedom,for the piv- 8 5 ots i and f will allow the frame F to be drawn forward or moved backward, while the swivelconnections 9 h will allow it to be moved to. either side, and at the same time the frame F may be raised or lowered, more or less, be-' cause of the pivotal connection f.

To the frame F are pivoted,at p p,two preferably L-shaped levers, P P, the upper ends of which are, by suitable springs, q, drawn against the end of the vertically-reciprocating 5 segment (1. The lower parts of the levers P P carry the jaws'R R, which converge when in the position shown'in Figs. 1 and 6,below the frame F, as indicated. The needle 'D is represented withtwo perforations or eyes, one of I 105) which, 8, is near its lower-pointed end, while the other, 13, is near the iniddle of its length.

The frame F carries also a spool-spindle, u,

upon which the spool S that holds the thread 5 o is hung. The thread 1; on leaving the spool is drawn through a tension device, w, of suitable construction that extends from the needle-holder E, as shown in Fig. 4. From there the thread 1; is drawn first through the upper eye, 15, and then through the lower eye, 8, of the needle. 7

It will be seen from Fig. 3 that when the segment dis in its lowermost position it will enter between scooped-outportions of the levers P, so as to allow the springs qto draw the upper ends of these levers nearer together, thereby spreadingthe jaws RRapart, while when the segment d is raised, as in Fig. 1, it will spread the upper parts of the levers P P, and thereby bring the jaws R R together.

The operation of the machine which has now been described is as follows: The fabric A has the design to be produced upon it delineated upon its upper face by suitable lines or marks. The needle being threaded,the machine is set to work so as to reciprocate the needle and alternately open and close the jaws B. Whenever the needle descends, (see Fig. 5,) it carries the thread down to the under face of the fabric A, the jaws R B being meanwhile open. When after this the needle ascends, it leaves the thread which it had carried below the fabric beneath the same in form of a loop, as in Fig. 6, the jaws R Rcoming together against the thread directly above the fabric A at the very moment when the point of the needle, in

its forward motion, gets above the jaws. The jaws being now held together clamp the thread tightly between them, and permit the needle as it ascends farther to slide on the thread, so as to leave a sufficient length of thread for the formation of the next loop between its lower eye, 8, and the jaws R B. When thelower eye, 8, is belowthe fabric, as in Fig. 5, the up; per eye is still above the fabric. It will be seen that the feeding of the thread and its unwinding from the spool S takes place at the time that the jaws bite the thread and the needle ascends. After having ascended to its full extent the needle is next moved downward again, the jaws are opened as the point of the needle enters between them, and thus the needle carries that portion of the thread which in Fig. 6 is shown to be above the. jaws R R downward into the space which is below the fabric, and a new loop is formed. Fig. 6 shows very clearly the character of the thread as it is placed in the fabric by the conjoint action of-the needle and the jaws, .and it will be perceived from this figure that no interlocking stitches of any kind are formed by this mechanism.

' The position of each loop is regulated by the operator in directing the needle from time to 65 time over those parts of the fabric, which, ac-

ranged to carry one eye of the needle beneath the fabric while the other eye remains abovecording to the prescribed design, are to receive these loops.

In manufacturing articles for use, the intention islto produce on the fabric A many colored projecting ornaments of the kind indicated in Fig. 9. The operator will therefore first exhaust one color or tint of thread which may be necessary for a certain design, then put on another spool with a different color of thread, exhaust that so far as the design requires it, and so on until all the different colors of threads shall have been placed in their appropriate positions in the design. \Vhen this has been done the effect which is shown in Figs. Tand 8, will be producedthat is to say, on one side of thefabric there will be a series of projecting loops, 9/ 3 while on the other side of the fabric, which in themachine was on top, the parts of the thread will lie flat.. The fab ric is now taken out of the machine and the' loops y are cut open and trimmed by suitable] shears, so as to leave the finished design in; the condition indicated in Figs. 9 and -10'that v is to say, the design will be formed of separate threads, each of, which will be U-shaped 0 in form having the middle part of the U resting against the side a of the fabric, while the ends of each U will project from the side b of the fabric. Thus a very rich effect is produced, which can be utilized for the covering 5 of articles of furniture, curtains, articles of dress, &c., and which, totlie best of my belief, has never ,been produced by any mechanism before my invention.

The fabric A, to which reference has, been made, may be stout woven fabric, leather, imi- ICO tation of leather, or any other suitable fabric having sufficient body to receive and hold the threads that are applied to it by my machine.

I claim-- 1. The combination of the reciprocating needle D and needle-carrier E with the pivoted levers P, jaws R R, and frame F, and with mechanism, substantially as described, for moving said needle and needle-holder up and down and vibrating said-jaws, so that the jaws will bite the thread on the ascent of the needle directly above the fabric, substantially as described. l

2. The combination of the frame Fwith the wheel G, having crank 6, segment d, needleholder E, needle D, levers P P, springs q, and jaws R It, substantially as herein shown and described. i v

3. The needle D, made with the two eyes, 8 and t, combined with the reciprocating needleholder E, having slotted segment d, and with the crank-pin e, and rotary-disk G, all ar-.

ICS

the fabric, while both eyes of the needle are threaded, substantially as herein shown and described.

4. The combination of the frame F with the reciprocating needle D, needle-holder E, lehaving the jaws R, with the tension device 10, vers P P, jaws R R, springs q, and crankwhich is attached to the needle-holder E, subwheel G, with the jointed frame H I J L, and stantially as herein shown ,and described.

mechanism, substantially as described, for ro- RENE GUERRAND. 5 tating the wheel G, as specified. 1 Witnesses:

5. The combination of the frame F, which CHAS. BARRES,

carries the needle-holder E, and the levers P, HARRY M. TURK. 

